Atikaki Provincial Park 2017 Solo Trip
A couple of weeks before this trip someone
asked me how I picked a place and a route to take. I didn’t have a
good answer. It was not something I consciously thought about. A trip
idea develops over time, starting at the end of the most recent
trip. I started with some criteria for this trip. Someplace
new, north of the border, not well traveled, 10-14 days and
physically
challenging. I was thinking about Wallace Lake as
an entry point to WCPP. However, with last year’s fire the Wanipigow
out of Side Lake was said to be blocked and
wasn’t planned to be cleared until later in the season. The other
option, three mothers portage from Side Lake to Obukowin didn’t
sound like a fun way to start a 14 day trip. Then I saw Martin
Kehoe’s trip report taking the Wanipigow north out of Wallace Lake
to the Bloodvein. I had looked at that route in Google Earth a long
time ago and always wondered if it was doable. That was the start of
planning a route which would take me up to Aiken Lake, East on the
Gammon River to WCPP. I would then followt he Manitoba/Ontario border north to
Artery Lake and down the Bloodvein River to Stonehouse Lake. From
there I would take the Teapail portage back to the Gammon River and
to Aiken Lake. I would retrace my steps back out the Broadleaf and
Wanipigow to Wallace Lake. This route had lots of short portages and
several long portages. It fit all my criteria.
Day 1
Sunday June 18
Off to a good start
7 hour drive up, 5 portages, 8 miles
I started the trip from my cabin which is only
30 minutes from the Lancaster/Tolstoi border crossing on Hwy 59. It does
not open until 8 AM so I was waiting in line. I don’t think he had
his coffee yet so it was only a couple quick questions and I was on
my way. I had made the trip up this way several times so I knew
where to stop and get my fishing license and Park Pass and get a
good bite to eat in Lac du Bonnet. Drifters on the way out of Lac du
Bonnet on Hwy 11 is the place to stop. It is attached to the Shell
gas station. I crossed the Powerview dam
and then up the 304. I made good time and was at
Wallace Lake at 1:45. It was overcast with an
occasional sprinkle and a good breeze out of the NE.
Soon I was on the way across Wallace Lake. I was
greeted with a good headwind which helped get
any pre trip jitters out of the way. In the next 3 hours I would
make my way across Wallace Lake, 5 short portages and I found a spot to
camp along the Wanipigow. Despite a couple of sprinkles I went
without a tarp as the forecast did not call for rain.
My gear was quite disorganized and I worked on organizing the
mess. It would
take a day or two get things in order. As with the case on most of
the trip, no bugs. An enjoyable evening. The days are long and it
was still light out when I hit the sack.
Day 2
The Wanipigow
and the Broadleaf Rivers
15 miles, 8 portages, 1000 meters
A nice start to the day. A bit of sun but
mostly overcast. I paddle a few miles before the first of several
short ~50 meter or so portages. It looks like good moose country so
I keep my eye out for moose. Along the way I see a broken down and
discarded canoe. I am sure it has a story. Then
at the end of the 3rd portage there is a moose out in
front of me. A young cow that pays no attention to me. This portage
also has some “relics” left on it. I am guessing that this route has
been used for moose/duck hunting or harvesting wild rice.
Soon I am at the junction of the Broadleaf River. A nice place to
take a break. A mother snipe is protesting my presence and soon I
see why. She has a young one hiding in the fire ring. I didn’t get
its picture this time but would get one on the return trip.
On Leaf Lake I was greeted by a pair of swans and then a pair
of Sandhill Cranes who turned out to be very photogenic. I found a
small rocky Island to have lunch on and take a break. Leaf Lake is a
wild rice lake. It had not quite yet emerged. After lunch I passed a
ricing shack that I am sure doubled as a moose camp in the fall. At
the end of Leaf Lake was a large campsite. You could fit a dozen
tents. I make note of this as it would be a good camp site on the
way back. At the end of Leaf Lake you pick up the Broadleaf again.
It was a bit tricky finding the entrance. Before I realized it I ended up on a mud flat. Eventually I found
the way on the west as it
meandered and snaked through the sedge meadow. This winding section
has a couple of dead end
possibilities. It is shallow and a soft bottom. You sit down in the
sedge grass so not a good view. However, there were lots of freshly
hatched ducks to keep it interesting. It eventually straightens out
and gets skinny as you approach a set of portages. They are short,
the last one you have to cross over a rock garden and up the other
bank to finish the portage. I bit tricky if it is wet and slippery.
Soon I am at a decision point. There is a set of portages
that cuts off about 3 miles of paddling to Kosteck Lake. I am tired of the
narrow shallow Broadleaf so decide the portage route.
The portage is a little grown over the first 75 meters or so
but then opens up and it becomes a task of following the rock cairns
with some nice vistas as you follow the top of a sedge meadow. About
600 meters later a small no name lake. The portage continues on the
other side. I find a nice camp site at the beginning of the portage
and decide to call it a day. It is a nice evening. After getting set
up and have supper I enjoy the evening. It was a long day and I am ready
for the tent early.
Day 3
Portaging and Paddling
11 miles, 4 portages for 2600 meters
I am up early and the sun is breaking through a
light fog. Sunrise is at 5AM but it is light enough to see without a
headlight at 4 AM. I take some time to enjoy the sunrise while
enjoying some hot tea and a large sugar donut. I had 3 of these
jumbo donuts for the first part of my trip. They make a good easy
breakfast. I start the day with a 1200 meter portage.
It is a nice cool and clear morning. Other than long it was a
typical portage for this area. Mostly follow the rock cairns with
some small ups and downs. Finally I am at Kosteck Lake. I have had enough
of small rivers and it was good to be back on a lake. It was a nice
cool and sunny day, one of the nicer days on the whole trip. On
Kosteck Lake I cache a couple of day’s food and a
battery pack on a small rocky island for the return trip. Then onto
a 2 kilometer portage to Aiken lake. No problem
finding the portage and I am soon headed across with my pack. The
portage is well cairn’d however you have to watch closely, there are
a few sharp turns and I had to stop a couple of times look for a
cairn. There is a really nice campsite on the far end. Large camp,
protected from the wind with a nice sandy beach. After going back
for the canoe I enjoy a nice lunch and some rest. While I was
checking out the beach I stepped on a large shell shaped rock just
und the water. It was slipperier than wet ice and I fell pretty hard
landing on my hand. I got a good bruise from that and it would
bother me some for the next few days. Aiken Lake was pretty calm so
I cut straight across to where the Gammon River enters the lake.
A short ways up the Gammon is a falls. It has a nice
campsite so I call it a day. Once camp is set up I make a few casts
at the bottom of the falls and catch supper, a couple of nice eating
sized walleyes. It is a beautiful evening and I relax in my chair
listening to the falls and watching the daylight fade.
Getting started on Kosteck Lake on a beautiful morning
The portage into Aiken Lake
Fish Fry at Carlson Falls on the Gammon River
Day 4
7 Miles 2 short portages
Continued-Part 2
I hope you enjoy the virtual trip. Feedback is always welcome. I can be contacted via email at bill@hobbydog.net